From Detroit with love - Steve's Deli Matzo Ball Soup

Heart of the 'hood

09/01/2010 10:00 PM

FELICIA DECHTER

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Steve Herkowitz

The Jewish New Year, Rosh Hashanah, begins next week, and I’m not the best cook — as my hubby and kids will attest to — but when it comes to Jewish cooking, I’m hard to beat, thanks to my grandmothers. I make a mean brisket, the best noodle kugel, and a tasty family favorite, matzo ball soup.

So when I heard Steve’s Deli, 354 W. Hubbard St., served good matzo ball soup, I was curious to see if it rivaled mine. Last week, I stopped in for a taste.

As I cut into the matzo ball, I thought OK, soft like it’s supposed to be, melting in my mouth, not hard as a rock. The chicken was juicy, the carrots cooked to perfection. My Jewish grandmothers would have been proud.

It was fate that brought Steve’s to the lucky River North folks (We’re a deli desert in my ’hood). After moving to Chicago for grad school, owner Seth Herkowitz was surprised he couldn’t find a deli with the same concept as his godparent’s, Steve and Joanee Hurwitz, who own the original Steve’s in suburban Detroit.

“I was in utter shock that in a city of this size and demographic base, there were no Jewish delis,” said Herkowitz, who’s 29, handsome as hell, has degrees in law and business, and is a newlywed.

Then one day, Herkowitz was leaving the East Bank Club, wishing he could have a Michigan Steve’s meal, when, “I look across the street and in this window was a For Lease sign,” he said. The rest is history, and in Oct. 2008, Steve’s Deli Chicago opened its doors. It’s now a full-service deli with about 90 seats, crystal chandeliers, homemade deli favorites, salads, hot dishes, desserts, fresh breads/bagels, yummy carry-outs, fun gifts.

Go for a nosh or a special New Year’s menu next week. There’s free parking in back. Bring the family, the pinochle deck, and stay awhile.

Meanwhile, here’s Joanee’s matzo ball soup recipe, about 10 servings. Enjoy!























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