It’s a world where diners are getting more and more finicky about their Mexican food. A master like Rick Bayless and his famous Frontera Grill and Topolobampo on North Clark Street have set a standard — providing guidance for knock-offs like Adobo Grill (in Old Town and Wicker Park) and Zapatista on South Wabash.

Flaco’s Tacos in Printers Row, to its credit, doesn’t try to be anything but itself. And the people who go there are free to be themselves, too. Not that many of them can get in at any given time. Flaco’s is small and only has a handful of tables; much of its business is carry-out.

You order and pay at the counter, and they give you your drinks. You pick up your own utensils and water, and pretty soon someone from behind the counter brings your food to your table or packs it in a bag to take home.

This service style makes Flaco’s a natural place to go with friends. It’s great because you can order as much or as little as you want and not have to worry about figuring who owes what when the bill arrives.

For those of age who like a drink, Flaco’s delivers. The frozen Margaritas flow like the fountain of youth. They’re terrifically good at $4.50 and only $3.00 on Monday. Corona with lime for $3.50 is a good deal, too.

But consistency is not Flaco’s Tacos’ strong suit. Sometimes your burrito will be warm and flavorful; the next time it will be a little cool and bland, but not terrible. All cost $6.95. The vegetarian comes with a wonderful poblano pepper that makes it worth foregoing meat. The chicken is nicely grilled.

Sometimes the guacamole and chips ($5.50 for a full order, $1.25 for a side) taste like Bayless himself pummeled the avocado and baked the chips and sometimes — I think it may have to do with the relative freshness of the avocadoes — there’s a vibrancy that’s missing.

Tacos, which come in the same “flavors” as the burritos, with the addition of fish, are $2.25 and are served on a soft corn shell with Chihuahua cheese, cilantro and onion. They aren’t bad. But they look like limp tostadas, which, incidentally, are only served once a week as a special.

Quesadillas ($2 to $6, depending on size and filling) and tamales ($2) are also popular menu stand-bys. There’s a full array of tortas ($5.95) as well — Mexican sandwiches with either skirt steak, chicken, pork or a vegetarian option, served with avocado, cilantro, onion, lettuce, beans and mayo.

The salsas are in squeeze bottles on the tables (and in little containers for carry out) and are fresh and vibrant.

Flaco’s décor is made up of old, character-laden distressed doors, which line the walls. The tables and chairs are big and sturdy and colorful.

Coca Cola ($2) comes from Mexico, where it is made with cane sugar, adding to the atmosphere. And there is always an unbelievable array of desserts to peruse at the counter under glass. Red velvet cake, chocolate layer cake, or a coconut cupcake for $2.95, anyone?

In spite of the inconsistency, Flaco’s is quickly becoming a default neighborhood destination.

---

By Mary from South Loop
Posted: 04/15/2010 3:59 PM

I love this place! It is comfortable and I enjoy the chance to try different fare without feeling clueless or broke for the experience...... that is to say... the staff is always kind in explaining to me the elements of the dish and the price is right. And you are right Bonnie- the guacomole is so good because they use fresh food! SO good.....